10.17.2015

it's freaking snowing on my brunch.

{ gluten-free pumpkin kaiserschmarrn }



Kaiserschmarrn is a staple dessert in Austria and South Germany, where it recalls sweet memories from a day out skiing in the Alps. Basically a fluffy pancake that is shredded, caramelized, dusted with powdered sugar and typically served with plum or apple compote, it got its name from Kaiser Franz Joseph I of Austria, for his love of it. I am not Kaiser Franz Joseph, but I also love it. I had already had the though of making pumpkin pancakes this satuday, but some enlightenment suddenly came to me that this was what I ought to make: pick a famous recipe and turn it around by tossing pumpkin into it. And here it is. Kaiserschmarrn... reinvented!






I am having this blunt realization that I have absolutely disregarded Autumn's baking potential my entire life so far. I have always had a weird relationship with the season, bouncing between true love and indifference. As a kid, I always loved being back to school, but hated having to carry several layers of clothing all over again. I loved the colours of Autumn, but I've always felt there was some sort of sadness beneath it all. I liked chestnuts, fireplaces, going mushroom foraging, gathering dry pine leaves, but I guess I was so busy with all the post-holiday rush that I've never taken enough time to appreciate it all. Or maybe some years I was too dazed by the fact it was soon-to-be my birthday. So despite all the bursts of love I had for it, to me, Autumn would over and over come down to being a bit bland.






This is particularly true in terms of food. Except for figs, which are actually still a late Summer fruit, I've always perceived Autumn as a sort of interregnum between summery fruit, which I ate as if there would be no tomorrow, and Christmas baking, which has its own indisputable magic. Maybe that's the reason I've never lent much thought to seasonal recipes.



Now that I am living in Germany and Autumn has virtually gone extinct (excuse my mediterranean soul but 6ºC ain't no Autumn!), I feel like I should have loved it more than not. Especially, for all that matter, being a November child myself. So, this year, I'm willing to make up for all other Autumns of negligence. And this is starting in the kitchen. You better get ready for some pumpkin, because that's what's up for today!



kaiserchmarrn de abóbora,
uma adaptação outonal da famosa panqueca austríaca.
sem glúten. pode ser feito com lacticínios sem lactose.

(por pessoa)
30g de passas
2 c. de sopa de vinho do Porto
20g de farinha de trigo sarraceno
20g de farinha de milho
1 c. sopa de amêndoa ralada
1 c. sopa de amido de milho
1 c. chá de fermento em pó
1 c. sopa de açúcar + 1 para caramelizar
80ml de leite
2 c. sopa de puré de abóbora (2/3) e cenoura (1/3) (tinha-o feito para outra receita)
8g de manteiga, derretida
1 ovo, separado
1 c. chá de xarope de baunilha
canela
noz moscada
sal
óleo vegetal
açúcar em pó para polvilhar

Colocar as passas de molho no vinho do Porto.
Numa taça pequena, bater a clara em castelo com uma pitada de sal.
Noutra taça, misturar bem as farinhas, a canela e a noz moscada.
Numa terceira taça, bater a gema com uma colher de sopa de açúcar até obter espuma. Juntar o puré de abóbora e cenoura, o xarope de baunilha e a manteiga derretida e bater bem.
Com a ajuda de um fouet, incorporar à vez um pouco da mistura de farinhas e um pouco do leite, envolvendo tudo com movimentos firmes até obter um creme espesso homogéneo.
Por fim, com uma espátula, incorporar as passas escorridas (deixar umas poucas para decorar, no final) e envolver suavemente as claras em castelo.
Levar uma frigideira com cerca de 18 cm de diâmetro ao lume alto com um pouco de óleo vegetal ou uma noz de manteiga. Deixar aquecer bem e reduzir um pouco o lume. Verter a massa de panqueca para a frigideira, de forma a formar uma camada com cerca de 1 cm. No caso de se multiplicar as quantidades de ingredientes, utilizar uma frigideira maior e/ou cozinhar a massa por partes.
Deixar a panqueca cozinhar bem por um par de minutos, até que a parte de baixo esteja bem dourada. Para verificar a cozedura, inserir uma espátula entre a panqueca e a frigideira e levantar ligeiramente. Utilizando uma espátula de madeira, para não ferir a frigideira, cortar a panqueca em quatro partes, e virar cada uma ao contrário, sem grandes cuidados.
Enquanto a parte de baixo cozinha, utilizando sempre a espátula, desfazer as panquecas em pequenos pedaços aleatórios. Juntar uma colher de sopa de açúcar, envolvendo bem, e deixar caramelizar um pouco, mexendo de vez em quando.
Para servir, transferir para um prato fundo, juntar as restantes passas e polvilhar com açúcar em pó. A kaiserschmarrn original é servida com compota de ameixa, ou de maçã, mas para esta versão aconselho maple syrup, compota de abóbora, papas de abóbora à moda de Ílhavo, ou apenas o açúcar em pó!

~

pumpkin kaiserchmarrn,
an autumnal take on the famous austrian pancake.
gluten-free. works with lactose-free dairy

(each serving)
30g raisins
2 tbsp Port wine
20g buckwheat flour
20g corn flour
1 tbsp ground almond
1 tbsp corn starch
1 tsp baking powder
1 tbsp sugar + 1 for caramelizing
80ml milk
2 tbsp pumpkin (2/3) and carrot (1/3) puree (I had made it for another recipe)
8g butter, melted
1 egg, separated
1 tsp vanilla syrup
cinnamon
nutmeg
salt
vegetable oil
confectioner's sugar

Soak the raisins in the Port wine.
In a small bowl, whip the egg white with a pinch of salt.
Into a second bowl, sift flours, cinnamon and nutmeg. Give it all a good whisk.
In a third bowl, cream the egg yolk with a tbsp of sugar until foamy. Add the pumpkin-carrot puree, vanilla and melted butter and beat well.
Using a wire whisk, mix in the milk and the flour, a bit of each at a time, whisking with a firm hand until obtaining a thick and homogeneous batter.
Using a spatula, fold in the drained raisins (save a few for decorating in the end). Carefully fold in the egg whites.
Grease a small (18 cm) frying pan with vegetable oil. Heat it well over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-high. Pour the batter into the pan, creating a 1 cm thick layer. If making a larger amount of batter, divide and cook it in turns.
Let the pancake cook until it is golden. To check it, insert a spatula between the pan and the pancake and slightly lift it.
Using a wooden spatula, tear the pancake in four slices and flip them over. No worries if they splatter.
While the other side is cooking, tear the pancake down to bite-size pieces. Toss a spoonful of sugar over and give it all a stir, while letting the sugar caramelize for some moments.
To plate, transfer to a deep individual dish, add remaining raisins and dust with confectioner's sugar. The original kaiserschmarrn is served with plum or apple compote, but for this version I reccomend maple syrup, pumpkin compote or just the confectioner's sugar!

~

Now I have to run because I am REALLY LATE for dinner at Ana's!
Have a great weekend!

Lots of love,
Inês

3 comments:

  1. Olá Inês: esta panqueca tem todo o aspeto de ser uma delícia ,outonal ou não ( e realmente com esta temperatura NÂO pode ser outono, rsrs). Tem ingredientes que adoro e sei que ia gostar, de certeza.Ficou linda!
    Bjn
    Márcia

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  2. I've never had Kaiserschmarrn - it looks and sounds wonderful!

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  3. Olá Inês!
    Com essa seleção de ingredientes deve ter ficado muito bom amei as fotos!

    Bjs ♥

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